Next Install the new AWE Boost Hose & Vacuum Tap Kit and your done! All together it looks cool ass hell! and functions very well. Youll likely have GND, 12VDC+, IGN, and backlight wires, or something similar.
Once you have some good slices in the hose, just yank 'em out of the ends of the adapter fittings. In most cases, like with the Greddy Electronic Boost Gauge, you will get an electronic sending unit that mounts in the engine bay, and there will be a wiring harness that runs through the firewall to your gauge instead of a thin vacuum/boost line. The kit took about 20 mins to install very simple cut the stock hose out with a razor knife and make sure not to cut too deep or you will nick the Ribs on the adapter fittings(*BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN CUTTING). Shit happens! The Last step was to cut the stock Vacuum Boost Hose under the engine cover and install AWE's Boost Hose & Vacuum Tap Kit. 2DC2-30SS type k thermocouple wire EGT 1' Probe 1-5/8' to 2' round Clamp 4 steel braid lead 712-2DWK Illumination Light Kit. Includes Gauge, 7 rubber hose, 2 hose fittings. I hear that TST has some really good boost bolts. Your model of Volvo might be different from the photos and description, but the concepts are there. This Volvo Forum topic covers installation of a boost gauge.
#HOW TO INSTALL BOOST GAUGE KIT HOW TO#
I think the recommended torque on a CR motor is 12 ft. Ready for a Boost Gauge Install How to Install a Boost Gauge. It was a pain in the a to get out, but it came out. I'm Pretty sure I lost most of the clips that hold the louvers in place and maybe a louver or two. 2' Dual EGT 100 - 1500F / Electronic Boost 0 - 35psi. I did the first time and broke the boost bolt doing it (it was some soft metal). However I don't think I can ever put the vent back together again properly if I ever wanted to. Wasn't too hard running the vacuum hose through the fire wall or mounting the new gauge in place. A hole is drilled and then a thread tap is used to create a thread in the crossover duct, which is where the boost pressure will be measured. I'd rather make a mistake on the old Ford than on the old Deli. I've decided to install the one I bought on the 7.3IDI and wait to do the pyro and boost together for the Deli. It was a pretty strain forward install other then the wire tap. For the boost gauge, a threaded hole needs to be made for the brass fitting that connects the plastic tube from the gauge to the boost-pressure side of the turbo. I didn't buy the PLX pyro, although it looks very nice. I chose to do the hard install where you have to take apart the fuse block to find the wire you need to complete the Wire tap in to the fuse block.
EGT (on the left) shows 400F (the X100 idicator is hidden by the needle), which is the lowest value on the gauge and even after idling for ten minutes it had barely moved above that figure. They say it's about a 2-3 hour install, but it definitely took longer then that. This is the idle photo (KJ in Park) Boost gauge on the right: slight vacuum due to no load. This Took me about 4 hours to complete the install and wiring. Autometer sells a kit to make your boost gauge a memory gauge.
0 kommentar(er)
